Abstract: The dispersal of sand from submerged mounds in the nearshore is driven by the interplay of processes such as converging and recirculating flows, changing roughness, bed slope effects and wave focusing/refraction. This morphological diffusivity is key to understanding sand bars in shallow seas, tidal inlets, estuaries, and the nearshore response to human interventions such as nourishments and dredging. Most of the work on the evolution of submerged mounds has been based on fluvial studies, focusing on flow without waves. In these cases, circular...
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Topics: 
Geotechnical engineering